Sunday, January 15, 2017

And She Was

I’ve been in Japan for 97 days.  Almost to three digits!  I was told by fellow coworkers who have also been on overseas assignments that 3 months is when it Feels Real.  I’ve so far found that to be true, but that has also laid in front of me an entirely different homesickness than I had just recently become accustomed to.  I went from “I miss the feeling of home” to, “I’m in Japan, but I feel at home – and that is really f*&^ing weird.”

Let me share a couple of examples.

My coworker from Portland accepted a job offer here in Japan around the same time I did, and he and his family arrived this week.  I was their sponsor, meaning I coordinated some of the logistics of moving abroad and shuttled them around taking care of business for their first few days on base.  They have a tribe of four inquisitive children who – more power to them – are embarking on a very unique journey in a foreign country.

This afforded me the gift of being a total expert about all of the Japan shit.  Their kids asked how to say “thank you”, and I KNEW THAT!  “Arigato gozaimasu” for DAYS!  I told them how to get to the arcade because my husband and I got drunk and battled on MarioKart there (I won and he is ashamed).  They asked me questions, and I knew the answers like I live here or something!  I am attempting to not break my arm while vigorously patting myself on the back.

This theme continued when my husband and I journeyed out to see the Tokyo Auto Salon, the world’s largest custom car show.  It involved 3 train transfers, each of which we navigated without even needing Google Maps.  I LIVE here!  I know things!  That is so neat!  

Then we were walking from the train station to the car show, and there was a small group behind us with one man and two women, all of them Japanese.  He was helping his female companions rehearse how to say “Good morning, how are you?” in English.  Of course it caught my ear because it is not often that you hear English spoken in Japan.  My ears pick up on the English language like a homing pigeon.  I often have to resist the temptation to tap on an English-speaker’s shoulder just to ask them how much they want to eat some Wendy’s and whether or not they miss Daylight Savings Time.  

Anyways, they caught my ear and put a grin on my face.  After their fourth or fifth iteration of practicing, I turned around and said, “Ohayo gozaimasu, genki deska?” which I know to mean “Good morning, how are you?” because I am level a million Japan professional.  They instantly started giggling and said a few things I didn’t understand but they were clearly delighted that I understood what they were saying in English.  We had a moment.  I’ll probably be the godmother for their first born children. 

So I was feeling pretty hot to trot, and breathing a sigh of relief that my home was starting to feel like Home.  Then I entered the Tokyo Auto Salon and was promptly bitch-slapped with a version of Japan that is so stereotypically Japanese I was tempted to Tokyo drift my way to the bathroom lest I piss my pants.  Tiny women in tiny outfits!  Insane cars!  Vans painted with 24K gold that have achieved sentience and ask you how your day was!  Body kits for DAYS!  Blinkers synced to roof-mounted sound systems!  More LED lights than I have red blood cells in my entire body!  Take everything mainstream media told you about Japan, and slam your face into it like 3 times, in quick succession.  That’s the Tokyo Auto Salon.

I suddenly did not feel so at home.  Shit was weird, yo.  Awesome, but weird.  Gaggles of photographers would congregate around certain stages, and I’d say – “hot damn, there must be a sick ass car over there, let’s check it out!”  Nope.  Mediocre car, skinny girl in a racing-flag print miniskirt.  With a ton of men taking pictures of her.  The most awesome cars were free-reign for photo-taking when the girls weren’t posing in front of them.  At first it was funny, then I just started feeling bad.  However, I was the only Western female taking pictures of them, and I made a point to smile and wave to them when I was done getting my shots which they all broke character to reciprocate.  Again, I’m going to be the godmother of SO MANY Japanese babies one day. 

So we Japaned pretty hard that day.  I enjoyed every minute of it and will never forget the experience, which was unlike anything I could ever experience in the states.  We headed home on a familiar route where I actually recognized the stop names written in Hiragana because I achieved level nineteen million Japan professional when I peed in a squat-toilet at the Auto Salon and didn’t even get urine on my tights.  

The next morning, I woke up and I said to myself, “Self, I am going to make some f&*%ing pancakes this morning because AMERICA!”  I Japaned really hard, and had a straight-up Tokyo hangover.  This was around 8am, and the commissary –  which is the grocery store on base, and the only place where labels are in English in the entire country of Japan and also the only place you can find Velveeta – doesn’t open until 10am.  So I hoofed it all the way up to the train station grocery store in search of syrup, only to find they didn’t open until 10am either.  I truly wanted to summersault into traffic because it was cold and I forgot my gloves and WHY DO YOU OPEN LATER ON SUNDAYS, Y’ALL AIN’T EVEN CHRISTIANS HERE.  “It’s okay, Self,” I said to myself.  “Just put on internet radio and kill time until you can buy some Butterworth’s.”

I’m sure you all have songs that bring you back to a certain place and time – music is wonderful that way.  You can truly shuttle back through your life and experiences just based on a melody and some lyrics.  This morning, I put on internet radio and a song came on that I didn’t quite distinctly remember.  It sounded familiar, but it was no “Billy the Kid” by Billy Joel, or “One Day More” from the 1987 Les Miserables cast album – each of which make me nine years old again just by existing.  But, this song caught my ear – much like those girls reciting “Good morning, how are you?” did.  Something familiar.  Something from… Home.

It was a spooky enough feeling that I settled into a random side-alley and cranked my headphones to full blast.  I closed my eyes, and listened to the rhythm and the lyrics.  I felt the oddest sensation – I was completely transported to another place and time, which I’ve experienced plenty of times with certain songs that I associate with different times in my life.  But this one, I couldn’t put my finger on it.  It felt familiar and foreign at the same time.  I couldn’t pinpoint a single time I’d ever heard the song before, but it took every cell in my body to somewhere else, sometime else.  At some point in my life, I heard this song, and whatever neurons were on duty that day were trying to pull me back.  It was such a bizarre feeling, especially considering it happened in a back-alley in Sagamihara in the Kanagawa prefecture of Japan.  Like, what?
Did I mention what the song was?  “And She Was,” by Talking Heads.  After listening to the song over and over in that back alley, these lyrics really stood out.

“She was glad about it... no doubt about it
She isn't sure what she’s done
No time to think about what to tell them
No time to think about what she's done
And she was

And she was looking at herself
And things were looking like a movie
She had a pleasant elevation
She's moving out in all directions

Joining the world of missing persons
Missing enough to feel alright”


Couldn’t have said it better myself.  “Missing” enough to feel alright.

Cheers.





























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